Let's ask the FDA (Food & Drug
Administration). They tell us that:
Ice cream is a food produced by freezing while stirring and that in order
to
be called ice cream, a product must contain all of the following:
more than 10% butterfat
9-12% milk solids (casein, whey, lactose)
12-16% sweeteners (corn syrup, sugar)
0.2-0.5% stabilizers and emulsifiers
55-64% water
For the purposes of this document, we're
going to assume that we're talking about cow's
milk, not goat's milk or condensed milk or skim
milk. Here at Dandy
Don's HomeMade Ice Cream, we haven't gotten into
goat's milk flavors yet. But we do have a flavor made with
mascarpone cheese.
A gallon of ice cream must weigh
at least 4.5 pounds.

Let's break down those ingredients and then we'll tell
you how ice cream is made.
Butterfat: Fat is flavor, my
friends. We may hate it on the waistline but we
love it on the tongue. The more butterfat you start
with, the creamier your ice cream will taste and feel.
At Dandy
Don's we normally use 14-16% butterfat in our
ice cream. The best and most widely used source
of fat for ice cream is fresh sweet cream. We get
ours from Driftwood Dairy in El Monte.
Milk Solids: Made up of the proteins
casein and whey and the milk sugar lactose. Too
few solids and your ice cream will be one giant frozen
block of ice; too many solids and your ice cream will taste
cooked or gritty or salty.
Sweeteners: Most ice cream mixes
contain both cane (or beet) sugar and corn syrup. Corn
syrup helps to give your ice cream extra body and texture.
Stabilizers: Stabilizers help
the ice cream handle temperature fluctuations without becoming
ruined. They also add body and bite resistance. When
you make ice cream at home without any added stabilizers,
you might notice how quickly it melts compared to commercial
brands. Too many stabilizers, however, can make
your ice cream overly chewy. Some common stabilizing
ingredients include CMC, locust bean and guar gums, sodium
and propylene glycol alginates, carrageenan (Irish moss
extract), and gelatin.
Emulsifiers: Emulsifiers are
used to stiffen ice cream and to help it hold air. In
order to make a square ice cream bar, emulsifiers must
be added to ice cream to help it keep an extruded shape.
They also help manufacturers of cheaper brands pump more
air into their product, reducing their cost.
Air: Sure, we need it to breathe.
But nobody wants too much of it in their ice cream. Air
is pumped into ice cream during the churning process. Air
can be churned in naturally (as in home machines and batch
freezers like we use here at Dandy
Don's), or artificially
(as in larger continuous freezers used by national ice cream
companies). The less air added during freezing, the
better. Overrun is the term we use
in the industry to describe how much air is in the ice cream.
Technically it means the volume of ice cream obtained over
and above the volume of mix used. High quality ice cream
doesn't exceed 100% overrun. At Dandy
Don's our overrun is
very low. We
put 6 or 7 gallons of ingredients into our machine and get
9 gallons out. That makes our overrun between 30%
and 50%.
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